Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Another Great Journey -- The Otago Peninsula

Instead of just hanging around Dunedin all day, Isabella and I decided to take in some sights around Dunedin.  Luckily, Dunedin has a very picturesque area within easy driving distance --- the Otago Peninsula.  This is a large spit of land that just out of the South Island and Dunedin is situated where the peninsula meets the mainland.  The Otago Peninsula has some remarkable things to see and we were determined to see as many as we could.

The first place we stopped was Taiaroa Head at the eastern edge of the peninsula.  This place is known for having the only mainland breeding colony of Royal Albatrosses in the world.  There is a visitors center that leads to a walk to an observation platform above the breeding colony.  Isabella and I stepped in, saw the prices and decided to step out again.  It was quite expensive for short viewing and there were no discounts for students or anything.  Isabella and I decided to drive up a side road to get some better views of the surrounding area and the panorama was exquisite.  Sunny days do not often happen in Dunedin and the sun provided excellent light for the views.  Isabella and I also had some lunch on the grass near Taiaroa Head, looking out over the Pacific Ocean.

At this point I figured that since we'd come this far, why not at least check out the colony.  I went inside and bought the necessary tickets.  I tried to get Isabella a discount as she is a conservation officer in Alberta but the staff declined.  Before the tour began Isabella and I looked around the visitors center which had many displays regarding the habits of albatrosses, the establishment of this particular colony and its subsequent protected status.  From there the tour group marched up to the observation platform.  There was only 1 albatross flying around and I didn't see any others in the thicket but an albatross is flight is quite an impressive sight to behold.  The wingspan is enormous but even the Royal Albatrosses wingspan is less than that of the Wandering Albatross, which can be up to 3 meters.  An albatross doesn't actually use and energy when it glides because it has a tendon that locks the wings in place.  They really are fascinating birds.

From the albatross colony, Isabella and I drove along the ridge of the Otago Peninsula to Larnach Castle, New Zealand's only castle.  It was built by a businessman and Member of Parliament who made his fortune in New Zealand and decided to build a home for his family in the Scottish style.  He found a beautiful spot atop the peninsula and set about having the structure built.  Mr. Larnach also made sure that the grounds were well ornamented with gardens.  However, the story of Larnach Castle is not a happy one.  Eventually, Mr. Larnach committed suicide and the children began fighting over the estate.  While Larnach Castle in its heyday had seen fantastic balls and functions, it eventually fell into decline.  The current owners bought it in the 1960s and it was in dire need of repair.  I'm sure that they got it for a steal and all I can say it has probably reaped dividends for them.

Larnach Castle, now fully restored, is a high end hotel and museum.  It's probably the most expensive hotel in the Dunedin area but people pay a fortune to stay here regardless.  It has a sort of charm about it and the views are undeniable spectacular.  The grounds contain gardens which are divided into several sections, each with different flora.  The inside of the castle, where photographs are not allowed, contains memorabilia from Larnach Castle's history and the rooms are preserved as they were.  The master bedroom had quite a nice view of the mainland on the other side.  However, my favourite place was the turret.  From there, there was an unobstructed view of the whole surrounding area.

You don't have to a be a guest of Larnach Castle to visit it, though you will have to leave by a certain time.  However, if you do want to visit the castle just as a visitor, be prepared to pay quite a substantial amount for the privilege.  It seems everything on the Otago Peninsula is expensive.

Our trip through Larnach Castle took us until the early evening so we decided to see some wildlife in Sandfly Bay.  This is a reasonable large bay on the peninsula's southwest.  It is one of the homes of the hoiho, the yellow-eyed penguin.  We drove to the parking lot and then walked the length of the beach to the blind to observe the penguins.  Along the way, Isabella and I observed many sea lions lying about in the sand.  They didn't become active until we were leaving so I guess they are mostly active at dusk and dawn.  We also saw a little hoiho walking along the sand dunes.  Once we reached the blind we were greeted by a volunteer conservation officer who explained where the hoihos like to make their nests.  He lent us a pair of binoculars and we observed some in the tall grass in the hills surrounding the bay.  These are quite sheer and I find it hard to imagine that a penguin could have climbed the distance.  It seems that they are tenacious little devils and simply hop as necessary.  After a solid viewing session, we hiked back to the car and drove towards Dunedin.

On the way back we took the high road along the peninsula's ridge.  Fog is a very common feature of the area and it was rolling in as we drove back.  It was a sort of fast moving fog that rolled and curled like smoke.  Once we were in the lower areas, though, the fog lifted and we could continue unimpeded.

Our Otago peninsula adventure was fantastic as we saw so much of what the area has to offer.  I hope to go back one day and, if I have a little more money, I'll stay at least one night at the castle.  The next adventure Isabella and I had was also very interesting, but at one point became quite harrowing.













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